汉语非皮“X裘”系列词汇考略

The study of Chinese non-leather “X fur”vocabulary series

皮制"裘"中国古代的王侯将相、庶民百姓都可以穿着,但品质有别。对于平民百姓而言,"裘"始终还是奢侈品,因此,"裘"也是身份地位高低的标识。后来,产生了诸多非皮制的类"裘"衣物,也以"裘"称,语言中随之产生了系列"X裘"词,X突出质料,"裘"标记其类。"X裘"系列词汇产生的原因,从语言外部讲,是民族交流的日益繁荣和编织技术的不断改进;从语言内部讲,是"裘"的语义特征的突显。"毡裘""褐裘""锦裘"等突显"裘"的毛外露的特征,"布裘""绵裘""缁裘"突显"裘"的厚实保暖的特征;"葛裘"则是据布裘类推而来的夏衣。"X裘"系列词汇中蕴含的诸多语言、文化方面的要素为"裘"所掩盖,词义也很容易被误解。系统考释"X裘"系列词汇,有利于语文、服饰辞书的编纂、修订以及中国古代的服饰研究。

Although leather ＂fur＂ was accessible for both Chinese ancient nobilities and civilians,the quality varied.For civilians,＂ fur＂ was luxuries at all times.Therefore,＂ fur＂ was the token for status. Afterwards, a good many non-leather ＂fur＂ kind yield.Because those non-leather ＂fur＂ was also named ＂fur＂, ＂X fur＂ vocabula- ry series arisen in language at the same time.The reason that ＂X fur＂ vocabulary series aroused,form exterior, was the increasingly prosperous intercourse between ethnic groups and constant improvement of knit technolo- gy ： form interior, was the highlight of semantic features of ＂fur＂. In detail, ＂felt fur＂, ＂brown fur＂ and ＂bro- cade fur＂ and so on silenced the characteristic of the exposed fur.While arrowroot fur was the summer wear a- nalogized from fabric fur.＂X fur＂ vocabulary series including many essences of language and culture aspects was covered by ＂fur＂ whose meaning was easily misunderstood.Systematically make philological studies of ＂X fur＂ vocabulary series was favorable for the compile and revision of Chinese and clothing dictionary and Chi- nese ancient clothing research as well.