“海派”妓女服饰文化探微——清末民初娱乐文化、“舶来”的摩登与审美情趣

The “HAI PAI” Exploration of Prostitutes Costume Culture in Shanghai Style——The entertainment culture in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China,modern of import and aesthetic interest

清末民初的上海是一个"五口通商"的商埠,是西方文化的输入地、中西文化的交汇点,是集娱乐文化、世俗文化、商业文化等于一体的大都市。娱乐空间的建构和娱乐方式的多元,拓展了妓女的生存和活动空间。"舶来"的西式时尚和审美情趣改变了妓女的消费理念和着装心态,成为了清末民初社会风尚的"引领者"。妓女服饰文化作为一种边缘性文化,以其独特的角度反映了时代大众文化的变迁。无论从都市文化构建的如世俗文化、娱乐文化、商业文化等诸多向度来看,都是对长期居于正统地位的儒雅文化、传统文化等种种文化向度的一种挑战。

Shanghai was a ＂five-ports trading＂ commercial port in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China.lt was a big city that contained entertain- ment culture,secular culture and commercial culture which was the import area of western culture and the intersection of Chinese and Western culture.The structure of entertainment space and the diversified ways of entertainment has expend prostitutes＂ living space.Its western fashion of import and aesthetic interest has changed the consumption conception and dressing mentality of prostitutes, and it has become a republic fashion leader in the rate Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of Chi- na.Prostitutes costume culture,as a marginality culture,is a epitome of mass culture.No mater from the structure of the city culture,for example,from the multi-angle of entertainment culture,secular culture and commercial culture,are all in the major place for a long time,such as hierarchic culture and traditional culture are the cultures which is the challenges to dimension.