南宋女装“大袖”形制特征及符号价值考

The Shape Features and Symbolic Values of the "Big Sleeves" of Women's Clothing in Southern Song Dynasty

目前学界对宋代服饰文化的纵深研究仍有待展开。大量宋辽金时期的典章制度、笔记小说、绘画图像,以及经考古发掘出的古代服饰实物等资料为宋代服饰的形制文化研究提供了良好的契机。本文以四座南宋墓葬出土的服装实物为依托,辅以文字史料及图像考据,从南宋女装"大袖"的称谓考辨及服饰等级、"大袖"的形制特征、形制语言的文化符号价值等三个方面展开论述,揭示了南宋女装大袖作为汉民族宽衣文化的典型符号所具有的积极的政治教化意义。

Despite the rich historical artifacts, a lot remains to be learned about the costume culture in Song Dynasty. The numerous laws, novels, paintings, and archaeological costumes from the Song, Liao and Jin periods provide a good opportunity for studying the shape culture of the Song Dynasty costume. In the present study, we examined women costumes excavated from four tombs in the Southern Song Dynasty from three perspectives： （a） naming evolution of ＂big sleeves＂ and clothing classes, （b） shape feature of ＇big sleeves＂, and （c） cultural symbolic value of shape. Along with historical text and graphic evidence, the study revealed the po- litical, educational, and cultural implications of the big-sleeved women＇s clothing, symbolic of the Han ethnic wide-costume culture of the Southern Song Dynasty.