新余夏布绣的演变与织绣技艺

Evolution and Embroidery Skill of Xinyu Grass Cloth Embroidery

新余夏布绣以绣地材质夏布命名,其在民间麻绣基础上形成以水墨画为表现语言的美术绣。通过对夏布织造基地、夏布绣坊、夏布绣博物馆及新余夏布绣传承人张小红的走访,从夏布绣绣地织造与刺绣艺术两个方面,揭示新余夏布绣织绣技艺的特征。在绣地方面,研究夏布肌理、色泽同其脱胶过程中柔软度平衡的织造要点;在针法方面,针对夏布绣透底针、松针、虚实乱针、层叠绣、一针多色绣等方面阐述其刺绣艺术。研究表明新余夏布绣以绣地的肌理与色泽而见长,在于其特殊的绣地夏布织造过程及采取适宜于绣地材质特征的刺绣艺术。

Xinyu Grass cloth embroidery was named from the embroidery ground material grass cloth,formed on the basis of ramie embroidery folk with ink painting as language art embroidery. This paper revealed the Xinyu grass cloth embroidery weaving and embroidered skill from two aspects: the grass cloth embroidery ground weaving and the embroidery art,by the way of investigating and surveying the grass cloth weaving base,grass cloth embroidery workshop,the grass cloth embroidery museum and visiting Xinyu grass cloth embroidered inheritor-Zhang Xiaohong. In the embroidery ground,the grass cloth texture,colour and lustre with its softness in the degumming process translated into balance of weaving points were studied. In stitching,the exposed needle,pine needles,cascading needle,blankness disorderly needle,a needle multicolor embroidery of embroidered art were discussed. The results showed that Xinyu grass cloth embroidery is better to the texture,colour and lustre,which lies in its special embroidery ground grass cloth weaving process,and adopting the suitable embroidery ground material characteristics for the embroidered art.