影响竹节牛仔织物布面风格的几个因素

Factors of Effecting Slub Denim Fabric Style

探讨竹节牛仔织物布面风格的影响因素和解决措施。根据竹节纱设计的内容及注意事项,分别讨论了竹节参数设计、竹节纱断头率、纬向竹节规律性条干、织物伸长率和经纬密差异等因素对竹节牛仔织物布面风格的影响。指出:在竹节循环中,范围较大、跨度较大,且有较大的节距存在时,应该适当缩短大节距的长度,以避免出现节距与节距聚集的情况;通过增加基纱号数,保证竹节个数和节粗不变,可以降低竹节纱断头率;在做纬向竹节纱时,从试样到批量生产尽量使用同一机型细纱机和竹节纱装置;在竹节规格一致的情况下,竹节风格变化与织布伸长率和经纬密有关。认为:科学合理的调整竹节纱工艺可以满足用户对竹节牛仔织物布面风格的要求。

Influences and solutions of slub denim fabric style were discussed. According to the content of slub yarn design and notes, factors of affecting slub denim fabric style were discussed such as slub parameter improper design, slub yarn breakage rate,weft slub systematic evenness, fabric elongation and difference of warp＆weft den- sity. It is pointed that when distribution is wider, span is larger and larger slub distance was existed,length of big slub distance should be shortened to avoid the gather situation between slub distance and slub distance in slub cy- cle. Slub yarn breakage rate can be reduced by adding the fineness of base yarn and promising the number of slub and slub diameter constant. When spinning weft slub yarn,the same type of spinning frame and slub yarn device should be used from sample to mass production whenever posisble. Under the condition of slub specification is consistent,slub style change is related to fabric elongation and warp＆weft density. It is considered that scientific and reasonable adjustment of slub yarn process can meet the requirements of slub denim fabric style.