亮布的结构分析及色彩成因

Structure analysis and color formation of Liang cloth

为拓展纺织品环保设计思路,从民族传统手工纺织品中挖掘工艺效果借鉴点,并合理地建立理论支撑和研究方法,采用扫描电镜、拉曼光谱、紫外-可见光谱等仪器与检测方法对亮布的显微结构和光学与光谱学特征进行分析。针对亮布的色彩来源问题,进行科学剖析和理论解释。结果表明,亮布表面泛着金属光泽的绛紫色,是靛蓝染料的化学色和亮布结构色的综合作用结果。绛紫色的结构生色部分来源于2个方面:一方面源于亮布表面覆盖的膜层结构所导致的薄膜干涉作用;另一方面则源于表面规律的微观凸起结构所导致的衍射作用。亮布金属光泽则源于薄膜反射和多级干涉。

In order to develop methods on designing environmental protective textiles,theoretical support and research methods are reasonably established from the process of the traditional national textilehandicraft. By scanning electron microscopy,Raman spectroscopy,UV-visible spectroscopy and the other detection methods,the micro-structure,optical and other spectral characteristics of Liang cloth were analyzed,scientifically studied and theoretically explained aiming at analyzing the color formation source of the Liang cloth. The results show that the surface of the Liang cloth suffuses with metallic purple,which belongs to the indigo dye chemical color and bright color of fabric structure. This is resulted from the comprehensive effect of the chemical color and structural color of the indigo. The metallic luster is resulted from the thin film reflection and interference,and the purple derives from the micro-structure forms in the making process.