含珍珠黏胶纤维多组分内衣面料的研究开发

Research and Development of Multi-component Underwear Fabric with Pearl Viscose Fiber

采用珍珠黏胶纤维与腈纶混纺纱线、腈纶纱线和锦包氨纱线为原料,开发多组分内衣面料。通过原料选择、组织结构设计、染色生产工艺的研究对比,确定了4种原料配比(腈纶∶锦纶∶珍珠黏胶纤维∶氨纶为67.7∶24.0∶5.6∶2.7)、双面组织结构交织、腈锦一浴法短流程染整的产品开发工艺,解决了珍珠黏胶纤维针织性能差和腈锦不易同浴染色等技术难题。结果表明,成品面料染色效果均匀,手感柔软滑爽,各项物理指标及外观风格指标达到GB/T 22848—2009《针织成品布》国家标准优等品和GB 18401—2012《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》标准要求。面料氨基酸含量为0.109%,微量元素含量为Ca:144 mg/kg、Mg:150 mg/kg、Mn:2 mg/kg,具有良好的亲肤护肤性能,适合作内衣面料。

The pearl viscose fiber/acrylic blended yarn, acrylic yarn and polyamide/spandex yarn were used to develop the multi-component underwear fabric. Through the comparison of raw materials selection, organization structure design and dyeing production process, the product development process including the ratio of 4 raw materims, double tissue structure interleaving, acrylic and polyamide one bath process and short process dyeing and finishing were determined, in which the ratio of acrylic, polyamide, pearl viscose fiber and spandcx were 67.7, 24.0, 5.6, 2.7 respectively. The technical problems including poor knitting performance of pearl viscose fiber and that acrylic and polyamide difficult to be dyed in one bath were solved. The results show that the finished fabric has well-distributed dyeing effect and soft smooth feeling. Its physical indexes and appearance style indexes meet the requirements of national standard GB/T 22848--2009 ＂Finished Knitted Fabric＂ high-class products and GB 18401-2012 ＂National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products＂. In the fabric, the content of amino acid is 0.109%, and the content of trace elements that Ca, Mg, Mn are 144, 150 and 2 mg/kg respectively. The fabric has good skin care properties, and it is suitable for making underwear fabric.