鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽的保湿性研究

Study on moisturizing efficacy of collagen peptides from salmon skin

以鲑鱼皮为原料,采用酸浸-水提法得到鲑鱼皮明胶,并通过酶解制备了鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽,其中超过91.5%的鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽分子量小于1 000 Da。通过葡聚糖凝胶G-15层析柱分离出5种组分,按其分子量的大小依次为:S1>S2>S3>S4>S5。体外试验结果表明,相对湿度81%的环境下,吸湿性顺序为:S5>S4>甘油>鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽>S3>S2>S1≈透明质酸>鲑鱼皮明胶;保湿性顺序为:S5≈S4>S3>S2>甘油>鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽>S1>透明质酸>鲑鱼皮明胶。相对湿度43%的环境下,吸湿性顺序为:S5>甘油>S4>鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽≈S3>透明质酸>S2>S1>鲑鱼皮明胶;保湿性顺序为:S5>S4>甘油>S3≈鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽>透明质酸≈S2>S1>鲑鱼皮明胶。皮肤测试结果表明,涂抹含鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽的护肤品能够显著提高皮肤水分含量和降低经表皮失水率(TEWL),小分子鲑鱼皮胶原蛋白肽的保湿效果优于鲑鱼皮明胶。

Gelatin was extracted from salmon skin （hereinafter refers to as the gelatin） by acid leaching and water extraction. Then the gelatin were hydrolyzed enzymatically to prepare collagen peptides. More than 91.5% of the collagen peptides has a molecular weight of less than 1 000 Da. Five fractions from collagen peptides named S1, S2, S3, S4, S5 in decreasing order of molecular weight were separated by sephadex G - 15. The study in vitro shows that when RH was 81%, the moisture absorption is a decreasing sequence as S5 〉 S4 〉 glycerol 〉 collagen peptides 〉 S3 〉 S2 〉 S1 hyaluronic acid 〉 the gelatin. The moisturizing effect shows a tendency of S5 ≈S4 〉 S3 〉 S2 〉 glycerol 〉 collagen peptides 〉 S1 〉 hyaluronic acid 〉 the gelatin. When RH was 43 %, the moisture absorption is a decreasing sequence as S5 〉 glycerol 〉 S4 〉 collagen peptides ≈ S3 〉 hyaluronic acid 〉 S2 〉 S1 〉 the gelatin. The moisturizing effect is S5 〉 S4 〉 glycerol 〉 S3 ≈collagen peptides 〉 hyaluronic acid ≈ S2 〉 S1 〉 the gelatin. The skin test results show that collagen peptides from salmon skin significantly increase skin hydration and effectively decrease transepidermal water loss （ TEWL）, which is superior to that of the gelatin from salmon skin.