纬向曲线机织物的织造技术

Forming technology for weft weave curved fabrics

为解决机织物纬向曲线织造问题,对纬向曲线机织物形成技术进行开发。主要是改变机械结构,调整织物组织组合,采用弹性打纬;或改变直线打纬状态,产生纬纱曲线;或改变部分送经速率,实现纬纱弯曲等,先后开发出多种装置,满足不同的织机机型。为装配大提花龙头的织机,设计出弹性自由筘;为装配多臂小提花龙头的织机,设计出双弯立体曲面型筘;为喷气织机在内的通用机型,设计出控制部分经纱送经速率的装置,制作出纬向曲线织物以及经纬双向曲线织物,并通过色彩与纹样的流行设计,使织物风格显得更为独特、新颖,外观上更为生动、丰富。

In order to solve problems on the weaving of weft weave curved fabrics,the forming technology for weft weave curved fabrics were developed by changing the mechanical structure,adjusting the combination of fabric structures and using elastic beat-up;or by changing straight line beat-up state to produce weft curves;or by modifying partial let-off ratio to achieve weft bending,et al.A variety of devices were developed one after another to meet the requirements of different weaving machinery models.For instance,for weaving machinery suitable for employing large jacquards,the elastic free reed was designed;and for weaving machines suitable for employing dobby,the double-curved three-dimensional surfaced reed was designed;and for the universal model adapting to those including air-jet loom the devices to control,the warp let-off was designed to produce latitudinal curve fabrics and weft directional curve fabrics,so that the fabric is more unique and novel in style,and is more vivid and rich in appearance by the fashion design of colors and patterns.