古代茶叶染色的试验研究(待续)

Experimental study on ancient tea dyeing(to be continued)

依据古代茶叶染色的史料,设计并进行茶叶染色的试验研究;根据试验结果,结合史料分析与茶叶化学理论,研究古代茶叶染色所用茶叶种类、染色工艺、染得色泽倾向及其染色机理等问题。得出结论:(1)古代茶叶染色方法有直接染色法、同浴媒染法、后媒染色法。采用直接染色法可染棕色,采用绿矾同浴媒染法可得皂色,分别用绿矾、铁浆后媒染色法可得莲子褐色和砖褐色。(2)直接染色的结果因茶的品种、织物种类而异,红茶得色偏红,绿茶得色偏黄,青茶介于两者之间;用绿茶、红茶染纤维素纤维可分别得到史料所载的"类远年"之旧纸色(暗黄色,L=80~81,a=7~10,b=35~37)和似紫棉之棕色(L=63~64,a=10~12,b=25~30)。(3)《墨娥小录》所载染莲子褐法所用的老茶叶是陈绿茶,与黑豆壳、绿矾可染深、暗的蓝紫色(紫褐色),即莲子褐(L=51,a=6,b=20)。元《居家必用事类全集》、明《多能鄙事》所载的"染砖褐法"所指的砖褐色是指纯度较低的蓝灰色,即浅蓝褐色(L=44~49,a=-1~0,b=-9^-11),染色方法是用红茶或绿茶煮染后,再浸轧微沸状态的铁浆。(4)茶多酚与蛋白质、多糖结合以及茶多酚的氧化聚合反应是茶叶直接染色的基本原理。由于茶叶中的茶黄素、茶红素、茶褐素等色素成分也有染色作用,而各种茶的茶多酚、色素含量不同,茶多酚与蛋白质或多糖的结合能力、结合牢度也不同,所以,不同茶叶品种对不同纤维原料织物的最终染色效果是红棕色与其他颜色的混合,宏观上表现为不同的棕色。(5)茶叶染皂、染褐色的原理均是铁离子与茶多酚络合显蓝黑色并与茶黄素、茶红素、茶褐素混色所致。染皂以水溶性绿矾为媒染剂,且是长时间煮染,故染得黑色;染莲子褐也以绿矾为媒染剂,故得色甚深;而染砖褐所用媒染剂为铁浆悬浊液,铁离子数量有限,媒染作用缓和,故得色较浅。

The experimental research of tea dyeing was designed and carried out based on the historical literature of ancient tea dyeing. According to the results of experiment and tea chemical theory, combined with historical literature analysis, the tea types, dyeing processes, colouring tendencies and dyeing mechanism in ancient tea dyeing were investigated. The conclusions are as follows. （1） Direct dyeing, one bath mordant dyeing and post-mordant dyeing are the methods for tea dyeing in ancient times. The colour brown can be ob- tained by direct dyeing; the colour black by one bath mordant dyeing with green copperas as the mordant; while lotus-seed-brown and brick-brown by post-mordant dyeing with green copperas and iron slurry as mordant, respectively. （2） The colour of direct dyeing varies with the type of tea and fabric. Reddish colour is dyed by the black tea, yellowish by the green tea, colours in between by oolong tea. The cellulose fiber is dyed dull yellow （/,=80-81, a=7~10, b=35-37） with green tea, which is similar to the colour of old paper of many years, and brown like purple cotton （/,=63-64, a=10-12, b=25~30） with black tea, respectively. （3） The old tea used in lotus-seed-brown dyeing method recorded in ＂Mo E Xiao Lu＂ is aging green tea. The dark blu- ish violet, i.e. dark purplish-brown or lotus-seed-brown （L=51, a=6, 5=20） is obtained by dyeing with black soya bean shells and green copperas. Brick-brown archived in Yuan dynasty＇s ＂Ju Jia Bi Yono Shi Lei Ouan Ji＂and Ming synasty＇s ＂Duo Neng Bi Shi＂ refers to the blue grey with lower purity, which is light bluish brown （L= 44-49, a=-lN0, b=-9N-11）. The dyeing method is to boil a fabric in black tea or green tea liquor, and then pad the fabric with iron slurry in slightly boiling state. （4） The combination between tea polyphenol with pro- tein or polysaccharide, and the oxidation polymerization of tea polyphenol are the basic principles of tea direct dyeing. As the pigments i.e. theaflavin, thearubigin and theabrownine in tea also have dyeing function, more- over, the various tea have different contents of tea polyphenol and pigments, the capacity and fastness of combination between tea polyphenols and protein or polysaccharide are also different. Thus, the final dyeing colour is the mixture of reddish brown with other colours, which macroscopically are viewed as different browns. （5） The principle of both black and brown dyeing is that the complexation of tea polyphenol with ferric ion, which result black blue, and it will further be mixed with the colour of theaflavin, thearubigin and the- abrownine. The black can be dyed by long time boiling dyeing with water soluble green copperas as the mor- dant. The lotus-seed-brown uses the same mordant, so it is dyed dark. However, the mordant of brick-brown, i.e., iron slurry, results in the limited ferric ions, which are directly responsible for the alleviated mordanting reaction ended with the light shade.