单向导湿舒适性针织面料生产实践

Production Pr actice of One-way Moisture Tr ansferring Comfor table Knitted Fabric

分别基于印花后整理和针织组织结构设计,采用改性亲水聚酯长丝,并经特殊疏水性功能整理及印花工艺,以及采用细旦聚酯长丝、阳涤仿棉丝和氨纶,经针织毛圈、添纱组织结构设计和染整工艺,设计开发了4种具有单向导湿效应和速干性能的针织面料。介绍了面料的设计原理、编织工艺和染整工艺,测试并分析了织物样品的单向导湿性能和速干性能。结果显示,4种针织面料的单向传递指数和蒸发速率均超过纺织品吸湿速干性的评定标准,具有单向导湿效应和速干性能,适用于运动类针织服装。

Based on printing process and knitted fabric structure design respectively, four kinds of knitted fab- tics with one-way moisture transferring and quick drying property were developed by using modified hydrophilic polyester filaments and special hydrophobic functional finishing and printing process, moreover, using fine denier polyester filament, polyester cotton yarn and spandex and through the terry and plating stitch structure design and dyeing and finishing process. The design principle, knitting process and dyeing and finishing process were intro- duced. The one-way moisture transferring and quick drying property of fabric samples were tested and analyzed. The results show that the one-way moisture transferring indexes and evaporation rate of these fabrics exceed tge e- valuation standard of moisture absorption and quick drying of textiles that have one-way moisture transferring and quick drying property, therefor they are suitable for sports knitted clothing.