符号学视角下明晚期宫廷应景丝绸纹样的解析

Analysis from the Semiotic Perspective in Late Ming Dynasty Palace Festival of Silk Pattern

结合相关历史典籍及考古资料,运用符号学理论,从图像的能指、所指及意指三个方面,解析了晚明宫廷应景丝绸所蕴含的文化内涵。研究表明:晚明宫廷服饰中应景纹样是节庆日所穿戴的纹样,其出现在明代晚期;应景纹样的出现,既有深厚的思想根源,又与明代的时代背景及社会意识形态息息相关;应景纹样是一个完整的符号系统,其符号的解读依赖于汉族共同的文化心理。该研究为传统节庆符号元素在现代礼服的传承与应用提供有益的借鉴和启示。

Combined with relevant historical and archaeological data, based on semiotics theory, from the image of the signifier and the signified and refers to the three aspects of function and cultural connotation of the patterns contained in the occasion. The research shows that： In the Ming Dynasty palace dress pattern was the festival occasion wear pattern, which appeared in the late Ming dynasty; There was palace festival of silk pattern, deep ideological roots, and was closely linked with the background and social ideology of the Ming Dynasty; the festival silk pattern was a complete symbol system, the interpretation of the symbols depends on the common cultural psychology of Han nationality. The study provides a useful reference and inspiration for the transmission and application of traditional festival symbols in modern dress.