三组明清织物装饰捻金线的技术分析与比较研究

Comparative morphological,compositional and technical research on three groups of Ming and Qing Dynasty metallic threads

为了对比分析不同金属线的形貌、材质和工艺差异,理解不同时代金属线差异产生的原因,利用显微形貌观察与科学仪器分析对三组明清纺织品捻金线样品的金属箔条、有机质背层、芯线进行了形貌观察分析。对比了三组捻金线的形貌、结构、尺寸和材质特征,对其制作工艺进行了对比分析,得出了三组捻金线的质量优劣等次,发现了金属线的选用与被装饰织物的时代、功用性质和文化属性之间存在一定关系的现象。含金量高的金属箔条、蚕丝芯线、尺寸纤细、制作精细的捻金线属于高等次的捻金线,常用于等级高、文化属性及功用重要的纺织品文物装饰,其中不带背层的金属线等级又高于带有背层的金属线。本研究对开展金属线系统分析和金属线对比研究具有较高的参考价值。

Types of microscopy were used to observe morphologies,and SEM/EDS was used to analyze compositions of three groups of Ming and Qing Dynasty metallic threads. The metallic strips,substrate,thread cores of these metallic threads were investigated. The differences in morphology,structure,dimensions and materials are compared and investigated. The manufacturing techniques used and quality grades of the three groups of metallic threads are discussed. It was found that metallic threads were selectively used according to decoration needs,textile function and their cultural attributes. The highest grades of metallic threads are those made using a high gold content foil,having a silk core,and as finely made thin threads. These threads were used for high grade,both functionally and culturally important,textiles. In addition metallic threads lacking back layer were considered better than the threads with the back layer. This research is valuable for metallic thread analysis and could be used as reference.