中原地区民间斜裁肚兜的结构与工艺

Structure and craftsmanship of bias-cut bellyband in Central China

肚兜是中国传统内衣文化最具代表性的载体,为了更好地保存和展示中国服饰文化的技术内容,文章采用了实物分析的方法,从造型、色彩、材质等对所收藏的中原地区民间肚兜进行了介绍。通过数据采集和裁片描绘,从技术角度对斜裁肚兜藏品进行深入分析,总结了相关的尺寸数据、穿着效果、局部设计的方法。通过对其缝制工艺、装饰工艺和辅助工艺的解析,提出肚兜在制作方面具有合理简化、讲求实际的特点,在装饰方面具有理性、适度、与功能相结合的价值取向,体现了质朴、务实的设计思维。

Bellyband is the most representative carrier of traditional Chinese underwear culture. To preserve and display the technical contents of traditional Chinese costume culture well,this study aims to present bellybands collected from Central China from the perspectives of shape,color and materials by means of physical analysis. Indepth analysis of bias-cut bellybands was made technically based on data acquisition and cut-parts presentation,and summarization was made on related dimension data,dressing effect and partial design method. Based on analysis of sewing technology,decorating technique and auxiliary technology of bellyband,it was pointed out that the making of bellyband is featured by reasonable simplification and practicability,and the decoration is of value-orientation of combining rationality,moderateness and function,which reflects the modesty and use-oriented design thoughts.