柞蚕丝面料在粘衬过程中的热缩率变化分析

Shrinkage Change of Tussah Silk Fabric in Fusible Interlining

针对织物稳定性,研究分析柞蚕丝面料在粘衬过程中热缩率的变化。采用6种不同平方米克重的衬料,在所确定的工艺条件下与柞蚕丝面料进行粘合。结果发现,无论与有纺衬还是无纺衬相粘合,柞蚕丝面料的经、纬向热缩率均会发生变化,而且经向热缩率大于纬向热缩率。柞蚕丝面料与有纺衬的粘合效果较好。柞蚕丝面料与平方米克重较大产生的衬料粘合时热缩率较小,因此在服装的领子、门襟、袖头等主要用衬部位,要选择较大平方米克重的衬料。

To study the shrinkage of tussah silk fabric in fusible interlining, six kinds of lining with different grams per square meter were selected to be adhered to tussah silk fabric which was used as the shell fabric. It was found that the both the warp and wept shrinkage of tussah fabric changed when it adhered to either woven lining or non-woven lining and the warp shrinkage was more than the wept shrinkage. The adhesive e^sct of tussah fabric with woven lining was better. It shrink less when adhering to lining with more per square meter grams; therefore, lining with more unit weight should be used in areas such as collar, front fly and sleeve cap.