明代中后期女袄的形制与结构特点解析

Shape and structure characteristics of female jacket in the Mid and Late Ming Dynasty

为对明代中后期女袄的形制与结构作进一步解读,以出土和传世的明代中后期女袄作为实物来源,结合墓葬简报与地方志等书籍资料进行分析研究,发现其形制与结构上的变化主要体现在领部、袖部、大身3个部位。通过对女袄领形、袖形、大身所具有的结构特征与变化的梳理,根据当时的社会状态和审美特征,总结了明代中后期女袄的形制特点与结构变化。揭示了其各部位的形制与结构变化规律:领子高度逐渐降低,领开口逐渐增大,衣袖部位袖底边曲度增加,大身部分尺寸愈加宽广,阐明了明代中后期女袄款式变化多样、继承与创新并存的特点,丰富了明代服饰文化研究成果。

In order to further analyze shape and structure characteristics of female jacket in the Mid and Late Ming Dynasty,the female coat unearthed and handed down is taken as the source of the material.By analyzing the local chronicles and excavation of tombs at that time,it is learnt that the change of shape and structure of the coat is mainly reflected in the collar,sleeve,and body part. According to the social and aesthetic characteristics,and combing the structure features and changes of the collar-type,sleevetypeand body part,the features of shape and structure changes of the female jacket in the Mid and Late Ming Dynasty was summarized. Shape and structure characteristics in different parts were revealed. The height of collar gradually reducs,and the opening gradually increases; the curvature of sleeve hemline increases; and the size of the large body is wider. It clarifies the characteristics the variety of styles,the coexistence of inheritance and innovation,enriching the research achievements on costume culture of the Ming Dynasty.