尺寸设计对绵羊革服装压力舒适性的影响

Effect of size design on pressure comfort of sheep leather garment

以高弹力绵羊服装革为面料,选用不同腰部收缩量设计,制作4种尺寸的紧身裤,并分别对穿着此4种紧身裤在站立、步行、慢跑、蹲4种运动状态下,位于腰腹、臀、膝盖、小腿等部位的A-E 5个测试点的压力进行测试。以Hollies评价方法对其进行主观舒适性评价。结果表明,用高弹力绵羊服装革制作的紧身裤,收缩量越大,服装对受试者产生的压力越大,这与其他面料服装具有一致性。在同一种收缩量条件下,站立状态下受到的压力最小,即使在收缩量为1.50cm时,最大压力值(C点)也仅为2.218k Pa;步行状态下,压力均略有提高;慢跑状态下,压力进一步增加;蹲状态下,受到的压力最大,在收缩量为0.00cm时,便达到3.906k Pa。结合主观舒适性评价结果可以得出,在进行收缩量设计时,应该综合考虑,既能使紧身裤外形美观,还能保证在各种运动状态下其具有良好的压力舒适性。

4 different waist garment-tolerance designs of tight pants were made using high elastic sheep garment leather as the main fabric. The pressures of A-E 5 testing points locating at cardinal body parts such as waist, abdo- men, hips, knees, legs and so on were measured under four different motion states for instance stand, walking, jog- ging and squatting. Hollies evaluation method was applied to evaluate the subjective comfort. The results show that for the tight pants made using high elasticity sheep garment leather, the bigger of the shrinkage set, the greater pressure of garment on subjects will produce, which is consistent with other fabric garment. Under the same garment-toler- ance, stand state shows the least stress, even when the shrinkage is 1.50cm, the stand state pressure is only 2. 218kPa. When shifting to walking condition, pressure is slightly increased~ When shifting to jogging state, the pressure is further increased. When shifting to squatting, the body will suffer the highest pressure, even when the shrinkage is 0. 00cm, the pressure is still up to 3. 906kPa. From the Hollies evaluation results it can be seen that it should be comprehensive considered when design the garment-tolerance to guarantee the pressure comfort under all kinds of motion states besides the artistic shape.