基于纸样的毛衫装袖工艺计算方法

Study on the process calculation method of sweater sleeve based on paper pattern

装袖是毛衫中常见的经典袖型,其结构是否合理对服装外观有很大影响。鉴于机织面料装袖结构研究较成熟,文章尝试将机织服装袖山部位结构制图的方法及技巧运用在毛衫装袖的工艺计算中,并验证其可行性。首先分析了目前毛衫装袖工艺计算中存在的问题以及不同服装袖窿部位的结构差异,再结合上述因素将机织服装袖袖山部位的纸样形状进行调整,得到毛衫装袖收针区域的针转数比例分配,并通过CAD制图验证了工艺计算时袖膊收针高度及袖阔的取值,形成了一套合体装袖工艺计算的方法,为毛衫装袖工艺计算提供了理论依据,有一定的实践应用价值。

Set-in sleeve is a classic sleeve type common in sweater,its structure has a great influence on the appearance of clothing. Because of the structure of woven fabric sleeve is relatively mature,the methods of drawing was applied in sweater sleeve calculation technology and to testify its feasibility.Firstly,the existing problems in the process of calculating and the differences between the structure of garment armhole were analyzed,then woven sleeve cap pattern was adjusted with the above factors,then the narrowing technique of set-in sleeve in sweater was obtained. The stitch value of sleeve cap height and width in calculation process was verified through CAD,and the method of sweater sleeve calculating method was formed. A theoretical basis is provided for the calculation technology of sweater sleeve,it also has certain practical application value.