几种常用保湿剂的保湿性能研究

Study on moisturizing performance of several commonly used moisturizing ingredients

对透明质酸钠、小分子透明质酸钠、金钗石斛茎提取物、β-葡聚糖、芦荟凝胶提取液、Aquaxyl(含木糖醇基葡糖苷、脱水木糖醇、木糖醇)、银耳提取液、海藻糖、神经酰胺9种常用的保湿成分30 min和2 h后的皮肤水分变化率以及保湿能力(相对于质量分数4%的甘油保湿效果)进行测定,每种成分选择两个水平标准。实验结果表明,在30 min和2 h后皮肤水分值变化率均在20%以上的保湿剂有小分子透明质酸钠组、2.00%金钗石斛茎提取物、神经酰胺组、3.00%β-葡聚糖;30 min和2 h后保湿能力值均大于1的保湿剂有小分子透明质酸钠、2.00%金钗石斛茎提取物、神经酰胺。综合两者,小分子透明质酸钠、金钗石斛茎提取物、神经酰胺是较为理想的保湿成分。

The moisturizing effects of nine commonly used moisturizing ingredients, i.e. sodium hyaluronate, small molecular sodium hyaluronate, dendrobium nobile stem extract, beta glucan, aloe extract, Aquaxyl （containing xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol）, tremella extract, trehalose and ceramide were investigated. The moisturizing effects were evaluated through two aspects, i.e. the skin moisture change rate after 30 min and 2 h, respectively, and the moisturizing ability relative to the moisturizing effect of 4% glycerin. Each of the components had two standards. The experimental results showed that, the skin moisture change rate after 30 rain and 2 h were both beyond 20% for the cases of small molecular sodium hyaluronate, 2.00% dendrobium nobile stem extract, ceramide and 3.00% beta glucan. The moisturizing ability after 30 min and 2 h were both beyond 1 for the cases of small molecular sodium hyaluronate, 2.00% dendrobium nobile stem extract and ceramide. Taking both into account, small molecular sodium hyaluronate, dendrobium nobile stem extract and ceramide were appropriate moisturizing ingredients.