大众化时代传统小吃的旅游改造

Tourism Transform of Traditional Snack in the Era of Popularization

地方小吃作为旅游文化的部分,是目的地旅游饮食的基本元素,其地域性、原真性以及独特风格吸引大量外来游客体验品尝。然而,中西部地区传统的地方小吃量大、粗糙等特点,不符合大众化旅游时代现代游客的品尝需求。文章以西安羊肉泡馍为案例,综合运用田野调查法,实际考察了西安不同区位的七家羊肉泡馍店,深度访谈了三代具有代表性的西安本地人,搜集整理了团购网上顾客对羊肉泡馍的评价。研究发现:大众化旅游时代传统小吃旅游改造主要向着精致化、多样化以及价值提升方向迈进,并归纳总结出传统小吃的形成以及旅游改造的新模式。

Local snack,an important part of the tourism destinations’ diet,reflects the local cultural characteristics,and its regional,authenticity and uniqueness have attracted a large number of foreign visitors. However,the traditional local snacks’ some characteristics,such as large quantities,roughness and coarse,are far meeting the needs of tourists now. This study selected the most representative food in the Northwest of China—Xi’an steamed mutton as the sample,visited seven steamed mutton shops located in different parts,and conducted hard-hitting interviews with three representative natives. Meanwhile,it also collected 300 customers’ evaluations on the Xi’an most typical steamed mutton shop from buy online. Compared with the history and current status,this paper found that traditional snacks reformed into three directions including delicacy,diversification and value promotion in the era of mass tourism,and innovatively sumed up the formation model and tourism transformation model about traditional snacks.