织物组织设计对其性能的影响

Influence of weave design on the properties of fabric

对于优质织物而言,原材料的选择与合适的织物组织设计非常重要。改变经、纬纱的交织类型和顺序,织物的外观和质地、结构、物理性能及力学性能将发生改变。在此背景下,探讨不同织物组织设计对织物性能的影响。选择纬纱浮长各不同的平纹、3/1斜纹、仿纱罗及背面浮松组织作为研究对象,在相同的织造条件下制备织物试样并研究和评估试样的性能。测试结果表明,平纹织物的面密度较大,斜纹、仿纱罗及背面浮松组织织物的面密度则无明显的差异;从织物结构来看,平纹织物的厚度较小,其后依次为仿纱罗、背面浮松及斜纹组织织物;因平纹组织的交织点多,因此其纱线卷曲率大于斜纹、仿纱罗及背面浮松组织;平纹组织织物的弯曲刚度较大,随着纬纱浮长的增大,织物的刚度减小;所有试样都具有良好或中等程度的抗起球性;平纹织物的悬垂系数大于其他组织的织物;平纹织物的透气性也最好。

Selection of raw materials and suitable weave design are very important factors for a good quality fabric. The aesthetic look and texture, constructional, physical, and mechanical properties change according to the type and order of the interlacement of the warp and weft yarn. in this context the present work has been aimed to study the influence of various weave design on the fabric characteristics. Plain, 3/I twill, mock leno and huck-a-back design were selected as the floating length of weft yarn was different in the above mentioned weave design. Fabric samples were prepared by keeping the same weaving condition. Several properties were studied and evaluated. The results showed that fabric weight was more in case of plain weave whereas fabric weight in case of twill, mock leno and huck-a-back were varying slightly. According to fabric structure, the thickness in case of plain weave was less followed by mock leno, buck-a-back and twill weave. Due to more interlacement in plain weave, crimp percentage in the yarns was more in the case of plain weave, than that of twill,mock leno and huck-a-back weaves. Bending stiffness was more in the case of plain and decreased as the floating length increased. Very good or moderate pilling behavior was found in all the samples. Drap coefficient was greater in plain weave than that of other weaves. Air- permeability was highest in plain weave.