近岛礁波浪演化数值模拟和实测研究

Investigation of Wave Evolution near Islands and Reefs through Numerical Simulations and On-Site Measurement

近岛礁极端和长期波浪与开阔海域的波浪有很大的区别,这对海上浮动平台的安全至关重要.为此在某 岛礁上建立了一个海洋环境测量站,配有3个浮标,用于波浪、海流和风等环境要素的长期监测.将第三代 波浪谱模型SWAN应用于近岛礁的波浪数值模拟,考察波浪由外海传播至近岛礁时波浪参数的变化,并将它 与一个时段的实测数据进行比较,表明计算波高比值与实测波高比值的趋势一致.这为后期近岛礁建设项目 中环境参数的确定提供重要依据.

Extreme and long-term wave data near islands and reefs , which are quite different from that of the open sea, are crucial for the safety of offshore platforms. Around a small reef island , an environmental measurement system is established , in which there are three wave- buoys. Concerned environmental parameters, such as wave, current , wind, have been measured on a long-term plan. Theoretically , the SWAN model based wave spectrumis presented, and numerical simulations of the wave evolution around the island and reefs are carried out. Variation tendency of the ratios of wave heights between the area near the island and the far field is obtained and agrees well with the measured data. These achievements can be applied for design of engineering structures near islands and reefs in the future .