传媒与时尚:法国现代化进程中的文化动力

Media and Fashion: Cultural Dynamics of French Modernization

从1672年《文雅信使》创刊直到19世纪末,以时尚杂志为主的法国传播媒体,成功地引领了从巴黎到外省、从欧洲到美洲的时尚潮流。它们往往图文并茂,集艺术创作、文学想象和印刷科技进步于一身,成为新兴资产阶级,尤其是中上层妇女娱乐、社交和消费的重要指南。作为一种知识生产,时尚杂志将启蒙思想和日常生活结合起来,不仅推动了法国时尚产业的蓬勃发展,而且培养了代表现代性的文化品味、阶级认同和性别重构,成为法国现代化过程中不容小觑的文化动力。

From the publication of Le Mercure Galant in 1672 to the end of the 19th century,French fashion journals,successfully set the trend for the world,from Paris to other provinces and from Europe to America.They were usually a galaxy of illustrated art works,literary fictions and the progress of printing technology,guiding neo-bourgeoisie class,particularly upper and middle class women,in their entertaining,social and consuming activities.As knowledge production of a sort,fashion magazines linked thoughts of the Enlightenment with daily life,thus not only pushing a vigorous development of fashion industry in France,but also nurturing a cultural taste for modernity,class identity and reconstruction of gender roles.Therefore,they were so important cultural dynamics of French modernization as to be never devalued.