珊瑚礁地形上波浪传播变形的非静压数值模拟

Non-Hydrostatic Numerical Simulation of Wave Propagation Deformation on Coral Reef Terrain

珊瑚礁广泛分布于我国南海等海域,具有重要的生态、旅游、港口和军事价值。波浪是珊瑚礁环境最重要的动力因素之一。基于非静压浅水方程波浪模型SWASH,模拟了典型岸礁地形上的波浪传播过程,并采用Demirbilek等的水槽实验数据分别对有效波高、波浪增水与爬高进行了验证,模拟结果与实测数据符合良好,展示了非静压模型在珊瑚礁地形上良好的适用性。通过波浪频率谱和波面小波谱,分析了波浪谱在该珊瑚礁地形上的演化规律,并揭示了礁坪上波浪能量从高频向低频转移的现象。本研究结果可为珊瑚礁环境动力研究以及相关的工程建设提供有益的参考依据。

Coral reefs are widely distributed in the South China Sea and have an important value in ecology,tourism,harbor and military affairs.Waves are one of the most important dynamic factors in coral reef environment.By using the wave model of non-hydrostatic pressure shallow water equation SWASH,the wave propagation process on a typical fringing reef terrain is simulated and the significant wave heights and the wave setup and run-up are respectively tested and verified by using the flume experimental data pairs published by Demirbilek et al..It is shown that the simulation results are in good agreement with the measured data,reflecting agood applicability of non hydrostatic pressure model on the coral reef terrain.By means of wave frequency spectrum calculation and wavelet analysis,the evolution law of wave spectra on the coral reef terrain is analyzed and a phenomenon of wave energy shifting from high frequency to low frequency during the propagation on the coral reef flat is revealed.All these results could provide useful references for the study on hydrodynamics in the coral reef environment and the relevant engineering constructions.