先秦葛麻服饰及其等级考

Ko-Hemp Dress and Its Grade in Pin-Qin Dynasty

通过对历史文献与考古资料的考证,发现先秦葛麻纺织业经历过蓬勃的发展,葛麻服饰形式多样。精细葛麻布是贵族的专属,而粗糙葛麻布则是平民的日常服饰,又称"布衣",后借喻平民。在纺织技术发展的前提下,服饰质料逐渐形成贵贱差异;而又在宗法礼制的强化下,服饰质料映射服用者的身份地位,两者共同促成了布衣作为本体粗糙服饰与喻体平民身份的二元统一。

Ko-hemp textiles had been booming in the pre-Qin and there were many forms of Ko-hemp dresses. Fine Ko-bemp dress was aristocratic exclusive and rough Ko-hemp dress was the daily dress of common people which is also known as the ＂Buyi＂ and indicated the metaphor of civilian. With the development of textile technology, there was morga- natic differences gradually enhanced by the patriarchal etiquette, dress material corresponded to the status of wearers, both of which contributed to Buyi as binary unification rough clothing and civilians status.