摘要
针对丝路沿线不同时期、不同地点多次出现的百衲织物,采用文献结合实物的方法,从形制与类别、材质与技艺、起源与蕴意、流变与兼容四个方面,对丝路沿线考古出土的、民间使用的、文献记载的和博物馆收藏的各种百衲织物进行比较分析。认为丝路沿线的百衲织物,历史悠久、种类丰富,虽然有不同的形制和材质,但在制作时均可通过"拼"和"补"的技术手段实现。百衲织物很可能是在东西方各自独立的文化体系下产生的,但随着丝绸之路的延伸和文化交流的深入,丝路沿线各个文明有了复杂联系,表现在百衲织物的流变和兼容上。丝路百衲,不论其起源的原因是经济、功能或是技艺,最终都会朝着形式美的方向发展,成为丝路织物研究不可或缺的一部分。
According to the method combined with reference and material object, patchworks which always collected from different periods and locations along the Silk Road were analyzed through four aspects, such as the form and the category, the material and the skill, the origin and the meaning, the development and compatible. And then comparative analysis was achieved in different kinds of patchworks of unearthed, civil use, documented and museum collection along the Silk Road. As a result, it could be indicated that the patchworks along the Silk Road were various and had a long history. Although different materials and shapes were observed in patchworks, all of them could be produced based on technology of quit skill. Initially, patchworks were appeared in the East and West under independent cultural system. While, as extension of the Silk Road and cultural exchanges, various relationships were emerged among different civilizations along the Silk Road which were represented in the development and compatible of the patchworks. Regardless of the origins of patchworks in the Silk Road were from economy, function or technology, they were eventually developed involving in beauty, becoming an indispensable part of research on the Silk Road textiles.
作者
茅惠伟
徐铮
MAO Huiwei;XU Zheng(Institue of Culture, Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology, Ningbo 315211, China;China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou 310002, China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2018年第2期76-81,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
浙江省教育厅一般科研项目(Y201534794)
浙江省文物保护科技项目(2015002)
关键词
丝绸之路
百衲织物
拼补技艺
流变兼容
文化交流
the silk road
patchworks
splicing skill
development and compatibility
cultural exchange