两件20世纪初欧美棉色织物劣化情况分析

Analysis of the deterioration of two cotton fabrics from Europe and America in the early 20th century

中国丝绸博物馆收藏的18世纪末到20世纪欧美时装藏品包罗万象,其中包含了许多棉色织物,时间跨度达300余年。该批文物藏品保存环境基本一致,但保存状态不同。部分棉织品劣化情况人眼难以识别,需借助现代科技方法对其加以判定,并根据其劣化程度不同,采取有针对性的保护措施。以两件棉色织文物为样品,采用光学显微镜和扫描电子显微镜观察样品中纤维的横截面和纵向表观形态,测定纱线的单纱强力、纤维热重性能;采用X射线衍射仪对纤维结构进行分析并计算其结晶度。根据测试结果对该批织物样品的劣化情况进行分析,得知该批棉色织物样品保存状况基本良好,但是部分开始劣化,需采取相应措施进行保护。

The European and American fashion collections which date from the late 18 th century to the20 th century（approximately 300 years）in China National Silk Museum are all-encompassing,including large quantities of dyed cotton fabrics.Although the preservation environment is similar,the preservation states of the cultural relics are different.As the deterioration state is difficult to be identified by human eyes,it is necessary to determine the fibers with the help of modern techniques.Next,the corresponding protection measures would be taken according to various degradation degrees.Two pieces of dyed cotton fabrics which are cultural relics were taken for examples.the cross-section and longitudinal appearances of the fibers were observed by using optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy.The single yarn strength and the thermal gravimetric property of the fiber were also measured.Besides,X-Ray diffraction was employed to analyze the fiber structure and calculate the fiber crystallinity.Based on the above results,we can draw the conclusion that the preservation condition of these dye cotton fabric samples are fairly good,though partial samples have been undergoing deterioration.They need to be protected.