垂荡褶服装立体裁剪中丝绺分析法的应用

Applications of the Across-the-Grain Method in Draping of Garment Cowls

垂荡褶服装由于起皱方式的多样化,褶纹悬垂支点设计也更为自由,与之相对应的丝绺方向将直接影响到褶纹的外观效果。通过实验法研究不同部位垂荡褶丝绺方向选用的一般原则和立裁操作过程,重点分析了优化垂荡褶外观形态的丝绺分析法,为最大限度表达设计意图、展示垂荡褶造型效果提供参考依据。

As heaving fold garment has diversity wrinkle ways and more free grain suspension pivot dstrands of direction will directly affect the plait grain appearance. This paper studied the basic choosing principles anddraping processes of heaving fold at different positions through experimental methods and grasped twire strand analysis method. The study could give some references to express design intent and show the heaving plaitmodeling effects to a great extent.