短裙苗祭祀上衣领子结构与纹样设计

Collar Structure and Pattern Design of the Sacrifice Coat of the Miao Short Skirt

以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏短裙苗祭祀上衣为例,从以下4方面研究短裙苗祭祀上衣领子的结构与纹样:(1)领子造型与玄鸟崇拜;(2)领子的结构及剪裁方法;(3)领面绣片纹样的结构、色彩、面料设计;(4)领子结构与领面纹样所蕴含的意义。通过实物测量,对传统民族服饰结构与纹样进行分析,以期对今后传统民族服饰文化研究有所启发。

This paper took the collection of Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as anexample, and studied the collar structure and pattern of the sacrifice coat of the short skirts Miao, from four aspects：①collar shape and fenice worship;② collar pattern and cutt in g method; ③structure,color and fab ric design of the embroi-dery patterns;④ collar pattern and the meanings of the embroidery patterns. This paper analyzed the structure and patternof the traditional garments through the way of garment measurements, which might give some suggestudy of traditional costumes in future.