服饰与制度:格子装演变折射的苏格兰高地社会制度变迁与文化表达

Dress and System: the Changes of Social System and Cultural Exchanges in Scottish Highlands Reflected in the Evolution of Lattice Skirt

服饰是最清晰的文化符号,是社会、政治、经济制度的直接反映。本文以盖尔人格子服饰的演变历史为线索,分析从束腰披风到短裙背后的苏格兰高地社会文化的变迁和文化交流,探讨人民是否接受移风易俗的关键在于是否接受新的社会文化体系。束腰披风代表的盖尔氏族社会通过流动的武士适应了高地的生态环境,建立了完善的文化体系和基本自给自足的经济基础;虽然1746年王权颁布命令禁止穿戴束腰披风,但盖尔人巧妙地进行了抗争。直到19世纪,高地随着商品经济发展和氏族制度解体,从边缘变为帝国的核心,格子短裙才真正取代了束腰披风,并成为整个苏格兰的象征。

As the most clear cultural symbol,dress directly reflects society,politics and economic system. This paper makes a study of the historical evolution of Gaels＇ lattice dress,analyzes the social and cultural changes and cultural exchanges in Scottish Highlands reflected in the evolution from waist cloak to kilt and discusses the idea that whether people are willing to change the existing habit and custom lies in their willingness to accept new social and cultural system. The Gaelic clan society represented by waist cloak adapted to the ecological environment of highlands through mobile warriors and established their perfect cultural system and a basically self-sufficient economic foundation. Although the crown issued an order to prohibit wearing waist cloak in 1746,the Gaels made a tactful resistance. Until the 19 th century when the highlands became the core of the Empire because of the development of commodity economy and the disintegration of the clan system,kilt replaced waist cloak and became the symbol of the whole Scotland.