全成形毛衫组织结构设计与工艺

Structure design and process of fully formed fashioned sweater

为了提高设计师设计全成形毛衫组织结构的能力，以典型羊毛衫组织为例，借助岛精四针床全成形电脑横机，研究了全成形毛衫编织技术、工艺优势及全成形对组织结构设计的影响，探讨其在全成形上的工艺实现。研究表明：四针床编织技术有不同于二针床的独特性，它最适合编织空气层，不能编织四平组织，设计全成形毛衫组织时必须考虑图案的连续性和可编织性。

In order to improve the texture design of the sweater, the typical example of woolen sweater texture is used as an example to study the effects of whole garment weaving techniques, the technological advantages and whole garment process on texture design with four needle-bar computer flat knitting machine. The technology realization on whole garment sweater is discussed. The research results show that four needle-bar knitting technology has the unique features compared with two needle-bar type. The former is good at knitting Milano rib but is weak in knitting full gauge 1 ＋ 1 rib. The continuity and stitch ability of the pattern should be considered during the design of whole garment sweater.