基于错位纺纱技术的云纹花色纱开发

Development of cloud yarn based on dislocation technology

为改善色纺花式纱结构，引入错位纺纱技术，在DTM129型空心罗拉紧密纺细纱机上采用右错位纺纱技术纺制18．22rex（32 a）云纹纱，并对其纵向结构、横截面纤维分布及织物风格进行了研究。结果表明：右错位云纹纱结构较为松散，短毛羽较多，纵向呈半包缠结构，表现出一定的螺旋规律，具体结构为有色纱包缠本色纱。横截面饰纱纤维分布在主体纱最外侧，饰纱纤维根数较少。云纹纱针织物呈云斑状，有彩霞效果，机织物呈仿麻风格。

In order to improve the structure of color spinning fancy yarn, the dislocation spinning technology is introduced. Cloud yarn of 18.22 tex （32°） is spun on DTM129 ring spinning frame modified by hollow roller compact spinning with right dislocation spinning. The vertical structure, cross-section fiber distribution and fabric style are studied. The results show that the cloud yarn with right dislocation features relatively looser structure, more Short hairiness, a demi-wrapped structure with a certain spiral pattern in longitudinal direction and colored yarn wrapped around the original yarn. In the cross-section, the decorative fibers are distributed on the outermost side of the main yarn, and the number of decorative fibers is smaller. Knitted fabric of cloud yarn is a porphyritic texture with a nidiant glow effect, while its woven fabric features a linen-like effect.