荷包红鲤与徽州山泉流水养鱼历史探究

Historical exploration of the red purse carp and fish farming with spring running water in Huizhou

为探究荷包红鲤(Cyprinus carpio var.wuyuanensis)与徽州山泉流水养鱼的起源历史,综合分析了山泉流水养鱼生态系统原理、渔文化特征、史料记载和荷包红鲤的分子生物学研究成果。山泉流水养鱼系统集中分布在皖浙赣交界莲花山周边的五龙山脉南北侧及与之相连的白际山脉东侧,流水鱼池面积1.5~12 m^2,引入山泉流水,放养草鱼(Ctenopharyngodon idellus)和荷包红鲤(Cyprinus carpio var.wuyuanensis)。荷包红鲤源于长江水系野鲤的黄色变异个体,唐玄宗时期中原地区的盆池鱼养殖模式传到徽州山区后,作为观赏鱼类在庭院鱼池中培育,因水体狭小导致游泳能力下降、椎骨畸形皱缩,通过长期的人工选择和定向培育,形成了色泽艳丽、体态宽厚圆润的地方品种。唐朝以来,草鱼代替鲤开始成为主要养殖品种,也成为徽州家族拜宗祭祖仪式上不可缺少的重要供品和婚丧节庆宴席上的压轴大菜。因山区交通艰难居民难以外出采购,在徽州盆地四大家鱼混养技术基础上,古代山民在养殖观赏鲤的小型流水池中放养家鱼,投喂青绿饲草,形成了以草鱼为主、搭配少量荷包红鲤的山泉流水养鱼模式,至今已有1 000多年的历史。

In order to explore the origin of the red purse carp （Cyprinus carpio var. wuyuanensis）and the history of fish farming with spring running water in Huizhou, this article comprehensively analyzes the ecosystem principle of the fish farming with spring running water, the characteristics of this ichthyic culture, the historical records , and the research results of the molecular biology of red purse carp. The fish farming with spring running water is concentrated in the south and north side of Wulong Mountains, which is around the Lianhua Mountain. It is also distributed in the east side of Baiji Mountains. A pond is about 1.5 - 12 m2, where spring running water is channeled to breed the grass carp and red purse carp. The red purse carp originated from yellow carp, it was a wild mutant of carp in the Yangtze River system. The mode of bleeding fishes in pond was introduced from the central China into Huizhou in Tang dynasty. The fishes were cultivated as ornamental fishes in the pond. Because of the narrow space of the pond, their swimming ability degenerated and the vertebra became deformed and shrunk. Through long-texan artificial selection and directed cultivation, it has formed a local variety with bright color and round body. Instead of carp, grass carp began to be the main farmed species since Tang dynasty. It also became the indispensable and important tribute in the ceremony of worship by Huizhou clan and an important dish in the sacrifice and wedding etiquette. It was difficult for people to go shopping outside the mountainous areas in the past. On the base of the four major Chinese carp species in the basin of Huizhou, the ancient hill tribe bred Chinese carp in the small pool once used for cultivating ornamental carps, and fed them fresh grass, forming the mode that people bred grass carp with small amount of red purse carp with spring running water, which is over one thousand years old.