一款双向起花织物的设计与生产

Design and Production of A Double Direction Figured Fabric

总结一款双向起花织物的设计和生产要点。以纯棉11.8tex黑色纱为地经和地纬,以棉14.5tex×2白色股线为花经和花纬,介绍了设计幅宽、经纬密、织物组织图等;总结了络筒、整经、浆纱和穿综穿筘等工艺;在GA718型喷气织机上生产,详细介绍了织机工艺参数的优选,包括双织轴的选择、主辅喷嘴引纬工艺、上机张力、开口时间、后梁高度等。最终保证了织物的顺利生产,织机效率达92%。认为:生产的织物起花效果较好,达到了设计预期。

The design and production key points of a double direction figured fabric were summarized.Pure cotton 11.8 tex black yarn was used as ground warp and ground weft.Cotton 14.5 tex× 2 white plied yarn was used as figured warp and figured weft.The design width,warp ＆ weft density,fabric texture and so on were introduced.The processes of winding,warping,sizing,reeding ＆healing and so on were summarized.GA718 air-jet loom was used for production.The processing parameter optimization were introduced in details,which included the selection of double beams,the wefting insertion through the main ＆assistant nozzle,loom tension,shed timing,back beam height and so on.In the end,the fabric was successfully produced and the loom efficiency was reached to 92%.It is considered that the figured effect for the fabric produced is better and it reaches the design expectations.