大小传统互证互释:以“三礼”匕箸进食礼仪为中心

A Great and Little Traditions Mutually Proved and Interpreted by Etiquette of “Spoons and Chopsticks” in the Book of Rites

匕箸是中国从古至今最主要的进食用具,也是中国饮食文化传统和进食礼仪的重要物化符号。尽管迄今为止考古发掘报告正式公布的匕、箸实物分别在距今七千年和六千年前,然而由于认知等级和材质易腐性等主客观因素,在钟鸣鼎食器物序列研究中相对薄弱,几千年来匕箸进食礼仪细节究竟如何亦是渺茫无知。考古实物和典籍记载的对读无疑是可行的研究方式之一。文章即通过系统梳理"三礼"文本所载进食礼仪及其用具,参照考古发现,重构早期中国匕箸进食礼仪的细节及其关乎"彝伦攸序"的社会意义,揭示文化大传统和文字书写小传统遥相呼应、互为阐释的方法论意义。

Spoons and chopsticks are the most important eating utensils in China since ancient times, and alsoan important materialized symbol of traditional Chinese food culture and eating etiquette.Although the spoons andchopsticks which are officially published by the archeological excavation reports are dated back to 7,000 years and6,000 years ago respectively, studies on them are still relatively weak due to subjective and objective factors such ascognitive levels and perishable materials. And it has been completely unclear that how the etiquette details of thespoons and chopsticks were for thousands of years. A combining analysis of archaeological objects and classic docu-ments is undoubtedly one of the feasible research methods for such study. By systematically sorting out diet eti-quette and utensils recorded in the Book of Rites, andreferring to archaeological findings, this article reconstruct-sthe details of the early Chinese eating etiquette concerning spoons and chopsticks and social significance, reveal-ing the methodological significance of the great cultural tradition and the little tradition of writing which are inter-preted by each other.