苏木不同媒染工艺条件下的丝、棉织物颜色特征值比较

Comparison of the color eigen value of hematoxylin dyeing silk and cotton fabrics through different mordant dyeing processes

采用煎煮法萃取苏木色素,以白矾为媒染剂,对丝、棉织物进行了不同工艺媒染,单因素实验分析了不同媒染工艺颜色特征值的变化特征,确定了相同工艺条件下丝、棉织物不同的显色规律及色彩L.、a.、b.、c.值的色谱范围。结果表明:丝、棉织物的苏木不同媒染工艺所呈现颜色特征既有联系又差异较大,丝织物染色效果明显优于棉织物。其中,丝织物预媒染呈紫红色调,同浴媒染呈橙红色调,后媒染呈中灰橙色调。棉织物预媒染呈浅紫红色调,同浴媒染呈浅橙红色调,后媒染呈浅灰橙色调。棉织物颜色特征值曲线变化平缓,在色彩重现性控制上优于丝织物。

The pigment of hematoxylin was extracted by decocting method, and mordant dyeing process was carried out on silk and cotton fabrics with alum as mordant. The change characteristics of color eigen values of different mordant dyeing processes were analyzed by single factor experiments. Then the color law of silk and cotton fabrics under the same conditions and the chromatographic range of color L., a., b.and c.values were determined. The results showed that the color eigen value of silk and cotton fabrics with different mordant dyeing processes were not only related but also different. The dyeing effect of silk fabrics was notably better than that of cotton fabrics. The silk fabrics showed apurple-red after pre-mordant, orange-red after same bath mordant, and moderate grey-orange after post-mordant. The color eigen value curve of cotton fabric changed slowly, which was superior to silk fabric in controlling the color reproducibility.