朝鲜王朝的宫廷阔衣研究

On The Royal Hwalot of The Joseon Dynasty

根据朝鲜王朝的法律,刺绣服饰的穿着具有严格的等级规定,但饰有彩色刺绣的阔衣因为是婚礼服饰,不受到此类规定所限。本文以福温公主阔衣和昌德宫阔衣为代表,分析了其在图案轮廓、构图风格、刺绣纹饰及制作方法等方面的特征和差异。尽管这两种阔衣有着不同的图案特色,却都代表了朝鲜传统刺绣文化的精华。皇家阔衣既是朝鲜王朝的刺绣服饰又是婚礼礼服。这种服饰以其装饰性和绘画性的织绣将新娘装扮得光彩照人,同时还以其吉祥寓意表达对新娘的祝福。

There is a set of strict restrictions on wearing embroidered dresses during the Joseon Dynasty. However, the Hwalot, decorated with colorful embroidery, survived as wedding dress. So this allowed ordinary brides to wear a Hwalot decorated with beautifu l embroidery just as princesses did. Th e Bok-on Princess Hwalot and Chang-duk palace Hwalot, both represent the Hwalot of Joseon dynasty but differ in silhouettes, composition styles, embroidery patterns and craftsmanship. Although they do not share fi gurative features, the two designs of Hwalot are both a beautiful part of cultural heritage representing the Korean traditional embroidery culture. Currently, a royal Hwalot, which was both an embroidered costume and a wedding dress of the Joseon dynasty, is the costume that decorates a bride beautifully with its decorative and painting-like embroidery, it also functions as a talisman bestowing the bride's future happiness.