中国古代眉黛研究

Research on Ancient Chinese Eyebrow Paint

本文对中国古代眉黛进行了一个全方位的考证与尝试性复原,并得出如下研究结论 :自配方上看,从早期的取自天然,如矿物质粉末(石墨、铜青、石青等)、植物性色素(青黛、松花粉、栝楼等)、进口西域名贵螺类色素提取物(螺子黛),到创造出人造墨丸(画眉集香圆等),可谓囊天地之精华,集万千之大成。从色彩上看,主要以灰黑色为主流,其间又流行过青绿色(晚唐之前)及短暂的黄色(北周)。从价值上看,上有"每颗值十金"的名贵螺子黛,下有随手可得的"烧柳枝为之"。

This thesis has made a comprehensive research on and a tentative reconstruction of the ancient Chinese eyebrow paint, drawing some conclusions as follows. In terms of the formula, it could be said that all the substances in this world were used, from natural substances in the early time such as mineral powder（Graphite, Verdigris, Azurite, etc.）, plant pigments（Indigo Naturalis, Pollen Pini, Trichosanthes, etc.） and imported valuable western murex pigment（Hexaplex trunculus）, to artificial ink stick（Smoke Ink Eyebrow paint, etc.）. In terms of the color, the gray-black was the mainstream, besides which there were also two popular colors, turquoise（before the late Tang Dynasty） and yellow（short-lived in the Northern Zhou Dynasty）. In terms of the value, it ranged from the most expensive ones such as Murex Eyebrow Paint, which was worth ＂ten golds per pellet ＂, to the cheapest ones which was easily available by ＂burning willow branch＂.