实践、包容与开放的“中式服装”(下)

Practical,Inclusive and Open "Chinese Garment" ( Ⅲ)

"中式服装"是在近代中国建设国民国家的伟大历程中,相对于"西式服装"而定义的。"中式服装"的范畴具有实践性、包容性和开放性。"中式服装"这一范畴在中国社会及文化中具有非常重要的意义,它反映了一个世纪以来中国广大民众服装生活的穿着实践和政治及知识精英的创制建构实践,以及所有这些实践均指向旨在确立中国文化主体性认同的方向。"中式服装"的创制、建构和延展,是一个反复试错和持续推进的过程,这个开放的过程将多种的创制实践都包容进来,从而形成了非常丰富的内涵。在对"中式服装"范畴的复杂性和包容性以详细解说的基础上,深入探讨当前及今后一个时期"中式服装"在中国社会及文化中即将获得的更加丰富的可能性。

The definition of ＂ Chinese costume＂ isrelative to ＂ western costume＂ in the great course of modern China ＇s construction. The category of Chinese costume is practical,inclusive and open. ＂ Chinese costume＂ has very important significance. It reflects Chinese costume life in practice and the construction practice of political and intellectual elites,and all the practices are pointing to the direction of subjectivity aiming to establish the Chinese cultural identity. The initiative,construction and extension of ＂ Chinese costume＂ are a process of trial and error and continuous advance. The open process includes various creation practices,and therefore forms a very rich connotation. Further the current and future possibility for ＂ Chinese costume＂ to obtain more in Chinese society and culture were discussed,after the detailed explanations of the complexity and inclusiveness of ＂ Chinese costume＂ category.