真丝织物天然染料蜡染工艺

Batik dyeing technology of silk fabric with natural dyes

目前靛蓝是蜡染工艺中最常采用的染料之一。为了拓宽蜡染工艺中天然染料的选择范围,根据蜡染的工艺要求,将真丝织物在40℃下用茶多酚、高粱红、栀子黄、栀子蓝、红花黄、甘蓝红、红米红和紫甘薯色素等天然染料染色,然后用80℃热水洗(脱蜡)。结果表明,从织物的表观得色深度K/S值来看,栀子黄和红米红色素最高,茶多酚最低。天然染料染色后的真丝织物耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度均可达到4级以上(栀子黄除外)。比较天然染料的综合性能,认为红米红色素最适宜蜡染。这些天然染料可以单独或拼色后对真丝织物进行蜡染,也可在染地色后再进行套染,以进一步丰富蜡染产品的色彩。

Now indigo is one of most frequently used natural dyes in batik dyeing. In order to widen the choosingrange of natural dyes, silk fabrics were dyed with tea polyphenols, sorghum red, gardenia yellow, gardenia blue,safflower yellow, cabbage red, red rice red and pigment of purple sweet potato at 40 ℃, and then washed with hotwater at 80 ℃ according to the process requirement of batik dyeing. The result shows that gardenia yellow and redrice red have the highest apparent color yield of fabrics （i. e. K / S value）, and tea polyphenols has the lowest K / Svalue. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of silk fabrics dyed with natural dyes are above 4 with the exceptionof gardenia yellow. Red rice red is most suitable for batik dyeing by comparing comprehensive properties of naturaldyes. Silk fabrics may be batik dyed with a single dye or mixture of two dyes, or over-dyed on ground color, so as tofurther enrich the color of batik products.