贵州花溪苗族女上衣中十字刺绣纹样探析

Analysis on the modeling and technology of cross embroidery pattern in the women's upper outer garment of Miao nationality in Huaxi,Guizhou province

贵州省贵阳市花溪区的苗族妇女以其精湛的刺绣工艺和装饰方法,将十字纹样的造型发挥到了极致。文章以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏的花溪苗族服饰为研究依据,结合实地考察,对花溪十字纹绣品总结归纳,从针法工艺、刺绣步骤、色彩构成及应用特点四个方面进行分析,总结出了四大类别七种针法和以"十"字形为基础的制作步骤。其丰富的刺绣针法是中华文化的瑰宝,具有传承的价值,程序化的制图步骤及巧妙的构图方式是中国古代劳动人民智慧的结晶,对现代设计具有启发作用。

In Huaxi district,Guiyang city,Guizhou province,the modeling of cross pattern has been developed extremely by Miao women with their superb embroidery techniques and decorative methods. Based on Huaxi Miao costumes collected in the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, the author summarized cross pattern embroidery combined with field study,and conducted analysis from four aspects including the stitching techniques,embroidery steps,color composition and application features. Meanwhile,the author summarized four categories, seven techniques and the steps centered around the cross pattern. The various embroideries with the value of heritage are treasures of Chinese culture. The programmed drawing steps and ingenious method of composition are the wisdom of Chinese ancient workers. This paper has inspirations for modern design.