唐代袒领半臂襦裙的结构分析与仿制

Structure Analysis and Imitation of Collarless Half-arm Ru Skirt in Tang Dynasty

通过研究唐朝壁画和人俑的半臂襦裙服饰,分析唐代半臂襦裙半臂、上襦和下裙3种形制组合,对唐代半臂襦裙3种形制组合的结构进行研究,并从不同形制不同部位的数据进行量化,探讨内外组合、上下组合两种情况下唐代袒领半臂襦裙的组合关系,选择适当面料并最终完成实物仿制,以期为传统服装结构研究提供理论参考。

Ru Skirt is a Chinese traditional costume that typically consists of a short coat and a long skirt.Through the research of the half-arm Ru Skirt in Tang Dynasty frescoes and pottery figures, this study analyzed three kinds of shape combinations of the half-arm cloth, the upper coat, and the skirt of the Tang Dynasty halfarm Ru Skirt, and conducted research about the structure of those three shape combinations. And this study also quantified the data of different shapes and different parts of and explored the combined relationship of Tang Dynasty Collarless half-arm Ru Skirtunder two conditions： the inner-outer combination and the upper-lower combinations, selected suitable fabrics and finally finished the imitation, in order to provide a theoretical reference for the structure research of traditional costumes.