多组分柔丝蛋白纤维面料生产工艺参数优化

Optimization of production parameters for multi-component soft silk protein fiber fabrics

从设计需求出发,通过试验确定符合设计要求的多组分柔丝蛋白纤维面料生产工艺方案,要求设计面料的拉伸、悬垂、抗皱3个指标综合性能最佳。根据实际条件选取混纺比、织物组织、经纬密度3个试验因素分别进行单因素试验,试验中断裂强度、动态悬垂系数、折皱回复角分别控制在700 N/(5 cm)、55%、600°左右。利用多重比较分析选取适合的因素水平进行正交试验,通过正交试验和模糊物元分析,最终确定柔丝蛋白纤维面料生产优化工艺参数为:羊毛/涤纶/柔丝蛋白纤维/桑蚕丝比例为60/20/15/5,织物组织为八枚三飞经面缎纹,经纬密度分别为360根/(10 cm)、310根/(10 cm)。

To ulfill the integrated performance requirements in three main aspects： tension, drape and crease- resistance,the production process of soft silk protein fiber fabric were determined through a series of experiments. The experimental factors-blending ratio, fabric texture and fabric density were selected for single factor experiment, and the tensile strength is about 700 N/5cm, dynamic drape coefficient is around 55 %,and crease- resistance is about 600°. The fuzzy matter element analysis and orthogonal experiment,which was arranged in the appropriate factor level （using multiple comparative analysis）,proved the optimized content of the fabric is wool/ polyester/ soft silk protein fiber / silk： 60/20/15/5,the texture of the fabric is eight pieces of three fly satin, warp density and pick density is 360/310 root/（10 cm）.