天津市女大学生体型分类及其原型修正

Body classification and prototype amendment of female college students in Tianjin

为完善现有的体型分类并通过构建实验原型使服装合体性更高,采用三维人体测量系统对天津市18~25岁女大学生进行形体测量,并对测量数据进行因子分析,得到对女性躯干部分贡献率最多的5个主成分,进而提取划分女性形体的特征指标。由特征指标组合成衍生变量,运用聚类分析将女性形体划分为瘦X体、标准体、胖H体3类;由回归分析得出各控制部位与胸围或身高的关系式,进而计算出3类体型各控制部位的档差。以标准体为例,根据服装结构原理及人体工学,参考文化式原型构建实验原型,借助软件模拟并对比实验原型与文化式原型的试穿效果,得出实验原型的穿着效果更合体。

To improve the existing classification of the body and increase the fit of clothing through constructing experimental prototype, three-dimensional anthropometric system was used to measure the female body of 18 ？25 years old. The factor analysis was conducted on measured data to obtain the five main components of the female trunk, and then the characteristics index of the female body was extracted. Characteristic index were combined to be derived variable and the female body was divided into 3 types by clustering analysis. The relationship between the control parts and the bust or height was calculated by the regression analysis,and the grade of the control parts was calculated. Take the standard body as an example, the garment prototype was built according to the structural principles and ergonomics, the pilot effect of experimental garment prototype and cultural prototype were simulated and compared with software,and the results show that experimental prototype is more fit.