国王费萨尔的帽子:一项关于克里奥尔化的研究

King Faisal's Hat: A Case Study in Creolisation

在1916至1918年阿拉伯大起义中并肩作战时期,埃米尔·费萨尔给T·E·劳伦斯的阿拉伯长袍一直是东方主义分析的一种隐喻。该文聚焦于伊拉克国王费萨尔,以及他在为新王国发展一种男性服饰的过程中所进行的针对身份认同问题的一系列复杂的协商。事实表明,尽管"阿拉伯的劳伦斯"长袍有创造神话之嫌,但费萨尔在运用服装方面确实有更深的用意。"克里奥尔"一词最初被用于描述加勒比海地区复杂的混合文化,由于欧洲殖民主义和奴隶贸易,在那里土著的美洲、西非以及欧洲的诸多民族与文化混杂在一起。作为后殖民和弱势阶层研究的一部分,它继而发展出一种更为广泛的用法,被用来描述全球范围内分类的而不只是限于加勒比地区的特殊类型的混合文化。牛津大学发展研究教授、国际移民研究所前所长罗宾·科恩将"克里奥尔化"阐释为"新身份与继承文化的构成物演变为有异于它们在原始文化中的性状"的一个过程。而这个词汇在本文中被使用的时候包含了三重含义,不仅仅是通常意指的"混合":首先,意指对费萨尔的选择造成多重影响的根源;其次,费萨尔创造出了某种区别于可供他选择的所有元素之外的事物;再次,正如文章的引言所示,克里奥尔化带有这样一种暗示,即新身份体现对其所想要拒绝的现象的反对。

The Arab robes given to T.E. Lawrence by Emir Faisal as they fought together during the Arab revolt of 1916-1918 have long been a trope in orientalist analysis. This article shifts the focus onto Faisal, later King of Iraq, and the complex negotiations of identity he undertook in developing a form of male dress for the new kingdom. It suggests that Faisal had the greater agency in the use of dress, despite the myth-making around ＇Lawrence of Arabia＇s＇ robes. Creole was a term originally used to describe the complex hybrid cultures of the Caribbean, where as a consequence of European colonialism and the slave trade, there was a mixing of indigenous American, West African and European ethnicities and cultures. It developed a broader use, as part of post-colonial and subaltern studies, to describe a particular kind of hybrid found globally, not just in the Caribbean. Robin Cohen, Professor of Development Studies and former Director of the International Migration Institute at the University of Oxford describes creolisation as the process by which ＇the formation of new identities and inherited culture evolve to become different from those they possessed in the original cultures＇. It is used here rather than the more usual ＇hybridisation＇ to indicate three things. The first is the multiple sources of influence on Faisal＇s choices, the second that he created something different to all the elements he derived his choices from, and thirdly, because creolisation carries the suggestion that the new identity embodies opposition to phenomena it wishes to reject, as seen in the quote at the head of the article.