外来饮食文化影响下广州本地居民地方身份建构过程的代际差异

Generational differences in the influence of exotic gastronomic culture on local residents' place identity in Guangzhou

伴随着地理学的文化转向以及"身体""情感"视角的引入,饮食文化的空间问题开始引发人文地理学界的关注。借助身份建构过程模型理论(identity process theory,IPT),依托对38位广州本地人的深度访谈,阐释外来饮食文化对其身份建构过程的影响及代际差异。研究发现,外来饮食文化的涌入引发了老一辈广州人多重的身份危机感,激发他们投身于地方传统饮食文化复兴实践,以对传统的忠诚和坚守来建构其地方身份。而自幼就被外来及本土饮食文化共同包围的年轻人则善于在不同情境下采纳不同文化态度和策略来建构其地方身份,缓解身份危机。该代际差异折射出饮食文化空间政治结构的轮回,而恰恰是这一空间政治的轮回孕育了地方饮食文化的继替。

Following the cultural turn of geography, and the introduction of perspectives from ＂body＂ and ＂sentiment＂, the space topics on gastronomic culture have attracted human geographers＇ attention. Based on Breakwell＇s（1986, 1992） Identity Process Theory, and on the deep interview materials of 38 local residents in Guangzhou, this paper discusses the influence of exotic gastronomic culture on place identity and generational differences in this process.Results indicate that the influx of exotic food culture arouses multiple senses of identity crisis among the older generation in Guangzhou, which stimulates them to take practices to reinvigorate the traditional local culinary culture, and to construct their place identity through their loyalty and insistence on traditions. However, for young people who live in the environment of both exotic and local gastronomic cultures since childhood, they are adopting the inclusive attitudes towards different cultures and the skillful strategies in varied contexts to construct their place identity, thus to alleviate the place identity crisis. These generational differences reflect the rotated political structure of gastronomic cultural space, which gestates the inheritance and succession of local culinary culture.