摘要
为梳理和记录传统染织工艺的现代嬗变,以田野调查材料为基础,研究贵州省舟溪镇染制亮布所需的材料与工具.当地染制亮布所需的材料与工具,染液和浆料的准备及反复染、浆、洗、晒、槌打、汽蒸等制作工艺流程.研究发现,贵州省舟溪镇传统亮布制作技艺在所选用布料、染料、工艺等方面发生了较大变化,工业布替代了手工土布、化学染料染色替代了部分植物染料染色、工艺流程有所调整、机械击打替代了部分人工槌打.
Based on the materials of fieldwork, the craft of Liang cloth in Zhouxi town of Guizhou province was studied,in order to track and record the modern changes of traditional dyeing and weaving process. This article focused on the materials and tools, the preparation of dye liquid and sizing agent, and the crafting process including dyeing, sizing, washing, drying, beating and steaming. The results show that the traditional Liang cloth production technology in Zhouxi town of Guizhou province has changed in fabric,dyestuff and process.
作者
刘一萍
刘欣
卢明
LIU Yiping;LIU Xin;LU Ming(College of Textile Garment,Southwest University,Beibei,Chongqing 400716,China;College of Food Science,Southwest University,Beibei,Chongqing 400716,China;Chongqing Engineering Research Center of Biomaterial,Fiber and Modern Textile,Beibei,Chongqing 400716,China)
出处
《西安工程大学学报》
CAS
2018年第5期525-529,536,共6页
Journal of Xi’an Polytechnic University
基金
国家社会科学基金青年项目(12XMZ076)
中央高校基本科研业务费专项重点项目(XDJK2014B005)
关键词
舟溪亮布
植物染料
动物染料
生色原理
工艺变迁
Zhouxi town Liang cloth
vegetable dyes
animal dyes
chromophore principle
craftwork evolution