栝楼籽油的提取、理化性质及其在化妆品中的应用

Extraction,Physiochemical Properties and Application in Cosmetic of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. Seeds Oil

研究了栝楼籽油的提取工艺、理化性质及其在化妆品中的应用。结果表明,最佳提取条件为:料液比1∶4 g/m L、提取时间为2 h、反应温度为60℃,得油率为66. 8%。栝楼籽油的理化性质:酸值0. 82mgKOH/g、皂化值190. 2 mgKOH/g、碘值132. 6 gI/l00 g;主要含有月桂酸:0. 4%、肉豆蔻酸:0. 2%、棕榈油酸7. 2%、硬脂酸3. 0%、油酸27. 0%、亚油酸32. 2%、栝楼酸23. 1%、花生酸0. 2%、二十碳一烯酸0. 2%、山嵛酸3. 0%、芥子酸0. 4%;角鲨烯:139. 8 mg/100g。其中不饱和脂肪酸酸90. 0%以上。将栝楼籽油制备美白化妆品,通过临床试验,结果显示其效果好,使用方便,安全可靠,无毒无副作用。它的生产工艺与传统化妆品相同,制备工艺简单可行,便于工业化生产。

The extraction process,physicochemical property of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil and its application in cosmetics were studied. The results showed that the optimal extraction conditions of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil were as follows： Liquid to material ratio is 1∶ 4 g/m L,extraction time is 2 h,reaction temperature is 60 ℃ and its yield of extraction is 66. 8%. The main physiochemical properties of the oil were acid value is0. 82 mgKOH/g,saponification value is 190. 2 mgKOH/g,iodine value is 132. 6 gI/100 g. Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil mainly contained some fatty acids such as dodecanoic acid： 0. 4%,myristic acid： 0. 2%,palmitic acid： 7. 2%,Stearic acid： 3. 0%,oleic acid： 27. 0%,linoleic acid： 32. 2%,Trichosanthes kirilowii acid：23. 1%,arachidic acid： 0. 2%,docosanoic acid： 0. 2%,sinapinic acid： 0. 4% and Squalene： 139. 8 mg/100 g,and fatty acid in which unsaturated fatty acid content was more than 90. 0%. Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil was applied in whitening cosmetics. The result showed that this kind of cosmetics is very effective,easy to use,safe and reliable,without any poison and side effect. Its technical skill of production is similar with traditional cosmetics,easy and practicable,which facilitates industrial production.