哈尼族奕车女子千层衣的层次研究

ANALYSIS OF THE LAYERS OF YICHE WOMEN'S “QIANCENGYI”

对哈尼族奕车支系女子千层衣的层次成因进行分析,深入挖掘千层衣作为传统服饰对服装设计行业的研究价值。文章将北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏千层衣为实物研究样本,结合田野考察和文献资料,通过对千层衣实物结构的实际测量与考证,发现弈车女子千层衣的层次与服装结构、面料肌理、手工艺、梯田文化、经济条件等关系有密不可分的联系。对我国现阶段服装设计行业而言,千层衣的层次性设计启发着我们设计创新的灵感,具有较高的研究价值与较大的研发创新空间。

This paper analyzes the causes of the layering of the Yiche women＇s jackets of the Hani people, and explores the research value of the traditional clothing to the fashion design industry. The ＂qiancengyi＂ of Yiche Women is short and exquisite and rich in layers. The article will take the “qiancengyi” in the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Clothing as a sample of physical research, combined with field investigations and literature materials, through the actual measurement and research on the physical structure of the layer of clothing.It is found that the level of the layered clothing of the women＇s clothing is closely related to the relationship between the clothing structure, fabric texture, handicrafts, terrace culture and economic conditions.For China＇s current fashion design industry, the hierarchical design of the layered clothing inspires the inspiration of our design innovation, with high research value and large R ＆ D and innovation space.