柔软改性对柞蚕丝拉伸性能和染色性能的影响

Effect of soft modification on tensile properties and dyeing properties of tussah silk

选用双棕榈羧乙基羟乙基甲基硫酸甲酯铵盐对柞蚕丝进行柔软改性,之后改变工艺条件用直接果绿LG对柞蚕丝染色,在最佳条件下改变柔软和染色顺序用叶绿素铜钠、活性红-BES和直接果绿LG对柞蚕丝进行染色比较。实验结果表明:经柔软改性后的柞蚕丝断裂强力减小,断裂伸长率增大; K/S值、红绿值a*、黄蓝值b*和色差DE*随着物料比的增大而增大,而红绿值a*和黄蓝值b*都随染液pH值的增大而增加,K/S值随pH值的增大而缓慢减小,色差DE*随pH值的增大几乎不变;柔软改性能提高柞蚕丝的K/S值,且先柔软后染色性能远高于先染色后柔软,但柔软改性对色牢度提升不明显。

The soft modification of tussah silk was made with Bipalm Carboxyethyl Hydroxyethyl Methyl Sulfate Ammonium Salt, and then the process condition was changed to tussah silk dyeing with direct fruit green LG. Under the best conditions, the softening and dyeing order of tussah silk was changed and the dyeing order was compared with the tussah silk dyed with sodium copper chlorophyllin, active red-BES and direct fruit green LG. The experimental results showed that the breaking strength of the tussah silk was reduced and the elongation at break increased; the K/S value, the red green value a ＊ , the yellow blue value b ＊ and the chromatic aben＇ation DE ＊ increased with the increase of material ratio; the red and green value a ＊ and the yellow blue value b ＊ increased with the increase of the pH of dye solution; the K/S value decreased slowly with pH increase; the chromatic DE ＊ almost remained unchanged with pH. The K/S value of tussah silk was improved by soft modification, and the properties of tussah silk treated with the order of first softening and then dyeing were much higher than that of tussah silk treated with the order of first dyeing and then softening, but the soft modification did not improve the color fastness obviously.